Comparing Old World and New World wines
Wine Tasting March 2010, Old World versus New World wines.
The France, Italy, Spain and most European countries are part of the Old World. Australia, New Zealand, America are part of the New World, incorporating all the new wine making techniques. South Africa is half and half.
Finest Prosecco de Valdobbiadene, non vintage - Veneto, Italy - alochol 11.5%
Prosecco is probable the best known of the Italian sparkling wines and is increasingly popular in the UK. It is made by the Charmat or closed tank method. This usually results in a softer, fruitier wine than Champagne and other wines produced by the Champagne method. The tasting wine is made from the Prosecco grape in the Veneto area of Italy. It is produced for one of the leading supermarkets in the UK by one of the best Prosecco producers, Bisol. Bisol owns its own vineyards and production facilities. This is a creamy, smooth sparkler with notes of peach and pear. Good as a light aperitif and with smoked salmon.
Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc 2009 - Malborough, New Zealand alcohol 13%
The launch of New Zealand Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc in 1986 changed the perception of Sauvignon Blanc in many countries and introduced New Zealand as a winemaking country. Previously, Sauvignon Blanc would come from the middle Loire Sauvignon de Touraine and was variable depending on the ripeness in this northerly wine area. Almost overnight, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc became associated with more powerful fruit flavors with very characteristic gooseberry notes. Over the years those notes have been turned down a little and today much of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc also incorporates softer, sometimes tropical fruit notes. The tasting wine is from Malborough, south island, which produces nearly 80% of all New Zealand wine. The cool climate of New Zealand suits Sauvignon Blanc producers, the best known being Oyster wine. Chile produces increasing quantities of worthwhile, good value Sauvignon Blanc often with more pronounced tropical fruit notes. For a more restrained, mineral note Sauvignon Blanc, try the Upper Loire. Sancerre and Pouilly Fum can be delightful but often expensive. La Grille Sauvignon Blanc, produced by a leading Sancerre producer but from grapes sourced outside the appellation, is a good example of an Old World, mineral driven Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc goes well with shellfish and other simple seafood.
Barn de Barbn White Rioja 2008 Rioja Alavesa, Spain alcohol 13%
La Rioja is the best known Spanish wine area. Only around 10% of Rioja wine is white. Like many other parts of Spain, La Rioja has changed enormously in recent years. Heavily oaked, and often musty, wines may still exist but younger fruit driven wines produced with greater use of stainless steel is now the norm. The move to stainless steel has created something of a revival for Spanish white wines, including in Rueda where the traditional Verdejo grape now has a new life producing crisp refreshing wines, often blended with Sauvignon Blanc. The tasting wine is made from the Viura grape which which elsewhere in Spain is often called Macabeo, and is a major element of Cava. Significantly, the wine is unoaked, an example of the new breed of Spanish whites. This wine is crisp, citrussy with some underlying tropical notes. A refreshing wine that goes with seafood, white meats and other lighter dishes.
Olivier Merlin La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes 2005 Macon, France alcohol 13.5%
A quality white Burgundy can be an ethereal experience but sadly often an expensive one. Outside the expensive Cote de Beaune i.e. Mersault - wines can be less expensive but not less satisfying. Macon remains a largely underrated area although the quality does vary considerably. The tasting wine is produced by Olivier Merlin who several years ago was voted Burgundy producer of the year. He is a perfectionist. Like many Burgundian producers, he has an extensive tange of small volume wines reflecting the different terroirs. The tasting wine is from the small area of La Roche Vineuse and is made from 45 years old vines. This is an elegant wine that will go well with smoked salmon and to use in special occasions.
Colom Torrontes 2007 Calchaqui Valley, Salta, Argentina alcohol 13.5%
Argentina produces a wide range of wines and around twice the volume of Chile. A major beef producing and consuming country it is perhaps not surprising that is best known wines are red. However, the country also produces intensely flavored white wines due, in part, to altitude the Andes. Argentina has the highest vineyards in the world, particularly those in the northern part of the country in Salta province. Vines grown at altitude benefit from the warm days and cool nights when the vines can rest. The higher levels of ultraviolet at altitude also help to produce greater flavor intensity. The absence of vine pests and diseases also contributes to healthy and often long lived vines. The tasting wine is made from the Torrontes grape which is now virtually unique to Argentina. It is made from vines between 50 and 120 years old old vines produce fewer grapes but ones with greater intensity of flavor growing at 6,500 to 7,500 feet above the sea level. This is only their second vintage of Torrontes. It has been widely acclaimed and a trophy winner with Decanter magazine. Colom has the highest vineyards in the world. Colom is a biodynamic estate. Fin in it a distinct, highly aromatic wine, with rich tropical fruit and floral notes balanced by good acidity. This is a wine that would go well with richer foods including Thai and Chinese dishes. In the Old World, Alsace produces the most aromatic wines, including Muscat and Gewurztraminer.
Bodegas Esmeralda Estiba 1 Bonarda 2008 Mendoza, Argentina alcohol 13.5%
The increased popularity of Malbec and other, more international red grape varieties can obscure the Fact that until very recently the most planted grape in Argentina was Bonarda. Bonarda remains popular and widely available in Argentina but sadly it is now difficult to find in major stores outside. The grape was probably imported from northern Italy around 80 years ago. It has a long ripening season and appears to flourish in the mountainous conditions around Mendoza. Often lighter than Malbec, it can sometimes be mistaken for lighter wines such as Beaujolais or Pinot Noir. The tasting wine is 100% Bonarda. It is produced by the Catena company who also in a venture with Bibendum produce the good value Argento range. This wine has notes of fresh strawberries an light floral notes, a soft, rounded finish.
La Difference Carignan Vyn de Pays des Cotes Catalanes, Languedoc, France 2008 alcohol 13.5%
The combination of an unfashionable grape and little known area can be a recipe for distinctiveness and value. When young, the Carignan grape produces somewhat characterless wine and since the 1960s very little Carignan has been planted. The consequence is that most Carignan vines are over 60 years old. Old vines Carignan produce a very different wine with rich and concentrated flavors. Parts of Languedoc, particularly Minervois, now have old vines Carignan that are capable of producing characterful wine. The tasting wine is from a little known Vin de Pays area near Perpignan. It is 100% Carignan - with an average 60 years vines. This is a complex wine with layers of prune, chocolate and herbs. It would go well with spicy meats, barbecues, and mature cheeses such as cheddar; a wine that consistently wins gold medals and is particularly good value.
Ravenswood Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma, California 2006 alcohol 14.5%
Zinfandel is the same grape as Primitivo, from south east Italy. In the US, Zinfandel has a mixed appreciation. Its association with cheap and cheerful wines stretching back to the Gold rush days has resulted in it sometimes being seen as less sophisticated than grapes such as Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. However, Zinfandel can make high quality wines some of which can be highly sought after and expensive. The tasting wine is made by the Ravenswood Company who are Zinfandel specialists. The particular wine is from old vines, averaging 85 years, in the Lodi area of California. This wine is 84% Zinfandel, 12% Petite Sirah, 2% other. Find lots of deep, dark fruit notes and hints of spice, a wine to go with heartier red meat dishes and mature cheese. Ravenswood most popular Zinfandel is the more widely available Vintners Blend, maybe slightly cheaper and it is good, but perhaps not as distinctive as this one.
Montgrass Reserva Carmenere Colchagua Valley, chile 2008 alcohol 14.5%
The Carmenere grapes were originally imported from Bordeaux in the late nineteenth century. Nowadays, there is little Carmenere grown in Bordeaux. Carmenere has some similarity with Merlot and until 1993 it was assumed that the Carmenere grapes in Chile were Merlot. The DNA testing revealed the difference. Carmenere ripens later than Merlot and this imparts more concentration of flavors its profile is somewhat between Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Chile now markets much of the previous Merlot more correctly as Carmenere. The tasting wine is made by Montgras, a winery that was founded in the early 1990s. It is made from grapes grown on a single estate. It is 90% Carmenere and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine has an intense red color Carmenere is derived from the word crimson with dark fruit flavors, perhaps some chocolate and herb or spice notes. The soft tannins enable easy drinking. This wine goes well with a wide range of meat dishes, particularly lamb with pronounced herb flavor.
Churchill Estates Douro Douro Valley, Portugal alcohol 14%
Port, particularly vintage port, is less popular these days with the result that many port houses are now producing a table wine using the traditional port grapes. Some port producers have gone further and now only produce table wine. The tasting wine is from a relatively new port house. They produce both port and table wines. It is made from 40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca and 30% Tinta Roriz. Find cherry and strawberry notes and a smooth, velvety finish. This wine would go well with mature cheee.
Willunga 100 Grenache Mclaren Vale, Australia 2006 alcohol 14.5%
Grenache is one of the most planted grapes but is usually part of a blend, notably in the southern Rhone. It is rare to see a Grenache wine. The characteristics of the Grenache grape include high alcohol, sugar, potential and strong fruit flavors. The tasting wine is 95% Grenache and 5% Shiraz. It is made by a 100 years old company, hence the 100 in the name, and many of the vines are old. The grapes for the tasting wine are specially selected. This is an intense wine that seems under priced. It goes well with hearty winter foods.
Colom Estate Calchaqui Valley, Argentina 2005 alcohol 14.5%
The Colom Estate is situated in the remote Calchaqui Valley, several hours riding from Salta. The winery founded in 1831 is one of the oldest in Argentina and is located 7546 feet above the sea level. The vines are grown up to 9891 feet the highest vineyard in the world. Some of the vines are over 160 years old. At these heights, the air is dry, no mildew, and no insects that may harm the vines. The estate is byodinamic. The altitude gives an intensity to the grapes that is helped further by the slow fermentation which is a consequence of the high altitude. Recent studies suggest that at altitude there is a higher level of antioxidants. Colom produces a Torrontes and three red wines. The starting red wine is called Amalaya and it is produced from young vines. In a very different league, it is the tasting wine, the reserve. The third wine is called Estate and has a black label. It is produced from the very low yielding oldest vines. Even in the best years, production is only about 250 cases and in most years, it is simply not produced. The tasting wine is 85% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Tannat. A proportion of the grapes is from 160 year old vines with the remainder averaging 60 years. This is a complex wine that has great depth and many flavor notes. A wine to savor slowly! The Colom Estate also has a 9 room hotel.
Jackson-Triggs Proprietors Reserve Vidal Icewine Niagara, Canada 2007 alcohol 10.5%
Ice Wine is made in small quantities in parts of the world that have severe winters such as Austria, northern Germany and Canada. Its production is dependent on the extreme weather at the time of harvesting. The grapes are left on the vine until winter and harvested when the grapes are frozen and the temperature is -10°C. Inevitably, there is considerable wastage with many grapes eaten by birds or simply falling off or rotting. The late harvesting, however, does concentrate the sugars and flavors in the grape. The grapes have to be picked up by hand, often during the night, and rushed to the winery where the frozen water in the grape is removed leaving an even more concentrated juice. The grapes are then fermented - usually in stainless steel to retain the flavors. The tasting wine is made from the Vidal grape in the Niagara province of Canada. The grapes were harvested on 30th January and 21st February 2006. The flavors include mango, papaya and apricot. The wine has won many international awards and it is extraordinary value considering the costs, risks, and difficulties of production. This is a wine that will go well with fresh tropical fruit, liver pat and foie gras.