Winter wines tasting notes
Notes from wine tasting on January 2011.
Cousino - Macul Sauvignon Gris - Maipo Valley, Chile – 2009, alcohol 13.5%
The Sauvignon Gris has its heritage in Bordeaux. However, after the phylloxera problems of the late nineteenth century which destroyed many of the vines it was not replanted. The grape is low yielding and late ripening which meant that it was uneconomic and risky in the Bordeaux climate. Since 1980 there has been a modest revival particularly amongst the more premium priced producers in Graves who add small amounts to a Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend. Cousino Macul planted Sauvignon Gris vines from Bordeaux in the 1860s but it was not until 2002 that they identified it as a separate varietal and began bottling it separately. The vines are old (which means typically low yields and more intense fruit concentration) but the producers are apparently unable to say how old. The grape performs well in the Maipo valley where the long ripening season and the day/night temperature differences seem to bring out the distinctive character of the grape. It is dry and refreshing but has richer flavours than Sauvignon Blanc. Typical notes are peaches, mandarins, grapefruit, wildflowers and a little spiciness. The climate and limestone rich soils help to maintain good acidity. This is a wine that goes well with creamy and oriental dishes. Other wines in this taste direction, but a little more extreme, include Viognier and Torrontes.
Villa Maria East Coast Private Bin Gewurztraminer - New Zealand - 2009, alcohol 13.5%
Gewurz means spice and therefore no surprise that Gewurztraminer is a wine often suggested for spicy food. The grape enjoys cool climates and a long ripening season. New Zealand would seem ideal. The grape is naturally high in sugars and can sometimes lack sufficient acidity. Balance is particularly important here to avoid a cloying after taste. The tasting wine is a textbook example of a well balanced Gewurztraminer.... off dry but refreshing rather than sweet. Find notes of lychee, rose petals and hints of ginger. The wine goes well with mild spiced Asian foods and other spiced dishes.
La Difference Carignan - Pays des Cotes Catalanes, France – 2009, alcohol 13.5%
The Carignan grape is one of the oldest known varieties with records dating back to 12m century France. When the vines are young they produce extremely high yields of not particularly worthwhile wine. Traditionally, therefore, Carignan has been used as a source of inexpensive wine or as an inexpensive addition to a blend. Over the years, many Carignan vines have been uprooted and replaced by other vines. The result is that there have been very little new plantings of Carignan over the last 40 years. The vines that remain are therefore old. Old Carignan vines are far less prolific and produce flavours and considerable character. In the south west of France there remain important pockets of old Carignan vines. Many of these vines are in vin de pays areas and cannot command high prices. The La Difference brand was created by two Englishmen with the objective of sourcing "true" French wines at affordable prices. The tasting wine is part of a range of La Difference wines. It consistently wins medals at prestigious events. Modest in alcohol level but high in flavor: prunes, dark chocolate and herbs. This is a wine to go with roast lamb shank with redcurrant jelly, strong hard cheese, or by itself on a cold evening by the fire. The south west of France (Languedoc-Roussillon) is a good source of inexpensive characterful wines often from cooperatives. Mont Tauch is particularly impressive. Old vine Carignan is also found in other parts of the world including Spain.
CM Carmenere - Elqui Valley, Chile – 2008, alcohol 14.5%
The Carmenere grape originated in Bordeaux and was taken to Chile in the mid nineteenth century. The vines and grapes have a resemblance to Merlot and the Chilean vines were assumed to be Merlot. In 1996, however, experts in Chile identified some of the vines as Carmenere. Later investigations revealed that around two thirds of the so called Merlot vines were Carmenere. Since 1998 Chile has been marketing Carmenere wine. The Carmenere grape is later ripening than Merlot and enjoys a dry climate. As with Merlot, rain and cooler conditions can produce distinctive green notes which can detract from the fruit notes. Carmenere combines some of the strength of Cabernet Sauvignon with the suppleness of Merlot. It has good acidity, soft tannins and a range of dark fruit (black cherry) and spice notes; sometimes even coffee and hints of soy sauce. The tasting wine is an example of the power yet softness of Carmenere. It has a small amount of Shiraz to provide a little more softness, sweetness and spice. A wine that goes well with many roasts dishes and more earthy ones such as mushroom risotto. There are now many Chilean Carmeneres available.
Colomin Tannat - Salta, Argentina – 2008, alcohol 14.5%
The Tannat grape originated in the Basque area of South West France, in Madiran. In the mid nineteenth century the grape was taken to Uruguay by Basque settlers. Today, around one third of grapes in Uruguay are Tannat. The variety spread from Uruguay to Argentina. In Argentina, the Tannat grape performs well but is eclipsed by the rise and popularity of Malbec. The thick skinned grape is high in tannins (hence the name) and other phenolic compounds and is arguably the grape that has the highest level of anti oxidants. Antioxidants are claimed to reduce heart ailments. The tasting wine is produced at the Colome estate in Salta province, the highest commercial vineyard in the world, from vines grown at around 10,000 feet. At this height the ultra violet helps to soften the tannins. The altitude also helps to produce concentrated flavours and intensely coloured wines. The long ripening period in these conditions favours the late ripening Tannat grape and further ensures full ripening and intense flavours. The Colome estate is biodynamic. The tasting wine has a small amount of Shiraz. It is aged for around two years in French oak. This is a richly flavoured wine that goes well with red meats and casseroles. The Colome estate also produces a very good Malbec.
Churchill Estates – Douro, Portugal – 2007, alcohol 14%
The Douro is the home of the Port grapes. The decline in sales of Port, particularly of vintage Port, has meant a surplus of these grapes. Sometimes with reluctance, many Port houses are now also producing table wines from these grapes and some Port houses now only produce table wine. Churchill Estates has embraced the opportunity for high quality Douro table wine and are widely regarded as producing the best value, quality Douro wines. The tasting wine is a blend of the three main Port grapes, 40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca and 30% Tinta Roriz. Although not fortified, you could close your eyes and sense Port in the taste.... dark cherry, black fruits and a hint of sweetness. Think of winter foods, winter evenings and Douro wine.
D'Arenberg The Custodian Grenache - McLaren Vale, Australia – 2007, alcohol 14.5%
Grenache remains the world's most planted red grape despite major uprootings in the 1980s in favour of Cabernet, Merlot and Shiraz. Most Grenache vines are in Spain where it is known as Garnacha. The grape is naturally high in sugars and fruitiness. In Australia, Grenache was once widely used for fortified wines. With the decline in fortified wines many of the Australian Grenache vines were uprooted. The D'Arenberg estate, however, refused to give up its Grenache vines and in fact began acquiring further old vine Grenache. Today, many of D'Arenberg wines include Grenache from these old vines many of which are over 60 years old. D'Arenberg became recognised as the custodian of old vine Grenache, hence the name of the tasting wine. It is 100% Grenache. A complex wine with many depths of black fruit, herbs, spice and smokiness; this is a winter warmer to savor by itself or with good roast beef.
La Difference Viognier-Muscat -South west France -2009, alcohol 13%
Viognier and Muscat are two of the most aromatic grapes. Viognier originates from the Northern Rhone, village of Condrieu, and in recent years has spread further afield, e.g. Yalumba, Australia, Condrieu Viognier is generally high priced. Viognier has characteristic apricot notes. The Muscat grape is arguably the oldest known grape variety. Muscat often has notes of rose petals and orange blossom together with spice. An overriding characteristic, however, is that of grapes. Both grape varieties are relatively low in acidity and are generally meant to be drunk young. The tasting wine is mainly Viognier. The grapes are grown in the Perpignan area of south west France. Medium dry but the combination of expressive fruit flavours may be perceived as sweetness. A bright, cheering wine that can be drunk by itself or with a range of richer dishes including sweet and sour and other oriental dishes. It is also an inexpensive dessert wine that would go well with tropical fruit salads.
Cosy up with winter wines for characteristics of wines good to drink during the winter and a comparison against summer wines.